I can think of no better way to end my final year of university at Parsons than to listen to an interview/lecture with the industry's ruling monarch: Anna Wintour. And so it was I came to hear her thoughts on where our little fashion industry is headed on this economic roller coaster.Because it was not until I read New York Magazine's tiny placement for this hugely exciting event at the back of last week's issue (it takes me a week just to get that far through) I was forced to line up for stand-by tickets at the 92d Street Y two and a half hours before the show began. I waited with despair as the only two girls ahead of me received cancellation tickets, and with a mere ten minutes to go before start time, I seriously began to question the viability of this plan. But as the cliché goes, "good things happen to good people", and since I recycle every week, finish all my homework on time, and hold the door open for others, a good thing happened. Mme. Anonymous walked up and handed me a free ticket... apparently her friend had bailed on her, and I got to reap the benefits!
I gleefully cozied into my seat, pen in had, ready to listen intently to everything the wise voices of Jonathan Tisch and Anna Wintour had to say.
The discussion began with brief introductions and a robust round of applause for the evening's guest of honor. JT began with a simple question: "What does the fashion industry mean to you?" AW began her reply by stating that there are a multitude of meanings, but she had not even finished her first sentence before a rowdy group of PETA demonstrators leaped up, threw a massive banner over the balcony, and started ranting on Anna's poor track record with fur covered beasts before breaking into the chant "fur shame, fur shame, fur shame." The crowd was more than a touch taken aback, and it took us several seconds before we rebounded. Someone yelled, "I love you Anna," and the rest of us broke into a thundering applause that drowned out the ridiculous chants of PETA before they were hauled out of the event.
I respect PETA's beliefs and their cause, but seriously, the lady was not even wearing fur! It all came off as silly and juvenile.
Regardless, I have to say that this was immensely exciting for me - my first PETA demonstration...it's like a rite of passage in the fashion industry. You're not truly fabulous until someone tries to douse your fur coat in paint as you step out of a show during fashion week. Poor Carine Roitfeld felt the full brunt of that last February when she was attacked by PETA protesters outside Jean Paul Gaultier's show at Paris Fashion Week.
The audience once again turned to the stage, wondering how the venerable Anna Wintour would respond. "As I was saying, fashion means different things to different people." The entire room shook with laughter in their Christian Louboutins, and A Dubs came off the classy and polished victor of that battle.
The evening continued without interruption, and the discussion was wholly inspiring. This is a lady who decided what she wanted very young, and without any sort of a formal university education, has climbed to the top of her league. She has worked in the industry almost her whole life - more than 20 of those as Editor in Chief at Vogue. She has taken a path separate from her parent's, despite their connections in the industry - her father was at one time the editor of the Evening Standard in the UK.
I've included a quick recap of some of my favorite comments.
*Not all of this is direct quotes, but it does offer a concise recap of what transpired.
JT: How do you maintain the Vogue brand
AW: I like to quote Ralph Lauren when this question comes up. 'I want the brand to be like Nike, like Coke. Not too hot, not too cold. I just want to be there.' Although we are a leader in the industry, we do not want to be too far ahead or we will lose our readers.
JT: What skill set do you look for in the people you hire today?
AW: I hire on instincts. Someone I would want to hang out with, and someone who will disagree with me - not "yes" people. I am looking for people that can offer something that I can't offer myself.
Like what? The lady knows and does everything! But it is nice to see that a backbone does in fact get you somewhere in this industry - although I imagine it better damn well be a polite backbone!
JT: How do you keep Vogue fresh?
AW: Despite the economic times, it is important that we don't turn into recession weekly [more laughs]. But we do focus on what's going on now. We are more focused on the cost of the items we use in the magazine. I now ask the price of every outfit that comes in. Editors are surprised by how pricey a little sequined dress by an unnamed designer can be. Chances are we won't use that $25,000 dress this time around.
JT: How will retailers fare going forward? Will we see the same deep discounts that we did last fall?
AW: Like many business owners, I think that retailers got scared and they panicked. I don't think that the industry will return to the same panic situation in future seasons. We are actually working with the Mayor on a program to bring customers back into the stores. We are announcing it next week so I can't talk about the details today.
oooohhhh!!!! Secret plans with Mayor Bloomberg! Do you think we'll all get $100 to spend on new shoes? Stay tuned for all the juicy details next week. WWD seams to be on top of the news - at least via their twitter updates.
JT: How do you feel about the move from Bryant Park to Lincoln Center for NY Fashion Week?
AW: There is a sense today that there are too many fashion shows during fashion week. Bryant Park ran its course and it didn't want us anymore. It became too small. With all the restoration going on at Lincoln Center, it is going to be perfect.
I unquestioningly agree. The industry has finally grown to be recognized as an art form in New york, and it is time that we treat it as such. The Lincoln Center adds a distinction to the week that was not present at Bryant Park.
JT: On the Met Gala and the Model as Muse Exhibit. Will we see more models on the cover of Vogue?
AW: I give immense congratulations to Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton, the curators at the MET Costume Institute. They did an incredible job. Who knows what the future holds; we certainly have a model on the next issue.
Vogue's last issue had a sprawling cover with many of today's top models. How could they not continue the trend??? The magazine must support the exhibit they helped to create!
JT: With the economy, is the business side, the numbers, becoming more involved in the publishing side?
AW: This is why Condé Nast is an incredible company to work for. Regardless of what is going on in the economy, we never have any editorial pressure from the business side. There is no pressure to be nice to the advertisers so that we don't upset them. There is no quid pro quo.
And as it should be. It is hard enough for young designers to make it in this industry without competing against the deep pockets of Vogue's biggest advertisers. Let's hope that this recognition and commitment to editorial integrity remains a corner stone of the Condé Nast Philosophy
JT: Why did you decide to put the First Lady on the cover of Vogue so soon into her time at the White House?
AW: Make no mistake, it was Michelle who 'decided' to be on the cover of Vogue. Vogue has actually been following Michelle Obama for quite a while. We profiled her in the September issue 2 years ago. The Obama's captured the fashion industry because they are the first administration in quite some time to accept the industry; to understand the industry & embrace the industry. Michelle shows that you can be a strong, working woman without wearing a paper bag.
Amen. And I think the pairing makes perfect sense. Vogue is out there to support and enhance the fashion industry and no one is doing that better that our current First Lady. Fashion match made in heaven!
JT: What does fashion mean to New york?
AW: New York is the center of Fashion for the United States. New Yorkers are amused by fashion, they love fashion, and they are fashion savvy. Fashion people come together in NYC like nowhere else. Seventh on Sale for AIDS/HIV awareness brought the whole industry together in New York. The first year Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Donna Karen - they were all out there actually selling the clothes. It is not seen outside New York. It is touching and hard to describe.
JT: Who would you like to spend more time with? Who would you invite to your next dinner party?
AW: I would like to spend more time with Ambassador Rice. I think she is an interesting and intelligent woman.
JT: Do you ever think of tackling other things in the future?
AW: Usually I'm just thinking about the next day. I'm very lucky, I think I have the best job in the world. To tell you the truth, I don't think I'd be very good at anything else.
Well, I think we all disagree with that, but there is no doubt that Anna Wintour has the best job in the world...at least the fashion world.
JT: When you look back, what look, style icon or cover best describes your time at Vogue?AW: I love the first cover I did at Vogue. It was with a model named Michaela, and she was in a Christian Lacroix t-shirt with a cross on it. We paired it with Guess blue jeans. It was a three-quarter length shot which was rare because we used to do just close frame head shots. So that was really marking a change. That is my favorite cover.
I love that from the outset Anna Wintour has not hesitated in changing and evolving industry standards. It is a sweet anecdote, but there is something more to take away from that.
JT: Is there still a future and a career in the fashion industry?
AW: Absolutely. Fashion is an important, vibrant industry, and when we all come together we can create change. Fashion has a bright future!
So the moral of this whole fashion story: don't give up if this is what you want to do!
And on that happy note we end.
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