Thursday, June 25, 2009

(IMO) a Fashion Meetup

I attended my first "meetup" on Tuesday evening - an event where like minded individuals come together to discuss, debate, defend and denounce the topic at hand. On Tuesday evening, that topic was innovation and technology in the fashion industry.

The Fashion 2.0 Meetup is (at the moment) a once monthly gathering hosted by Yuli Ziv and held at secret location disclosed only to those selected as members. Yuli is a fashion blogger of increasing prominence. She is the co-founder and EIC of My It Things, a leading user generated fashion magazine and community; and a founding member of Style Coalition, an alliance of independent online publishers in the fashion vertical. Thankfully for all of us, Yuli is using her expansive network to help introduce entrepreneurs, the online community, and fashion ingenues in general to a wide array of industry professionals who are currently making big waves in fashion.

Tuesday's meetup brought one hundred members face to face with an impressive panel of fashion executives including Alexis Maybank, Founder, Gilt Groupe; Michael J. Smith, President and CEO, AVELLE (the new Bag Borrow or Steal); Susan Engel, CEO, Portero; and Adam Dell, Managing General Partner of Impact Venture Partners. Four of the most successful names in the online fashion market offered their view points - sometimes converging, sometimes diverging - on topics ranging from designer price points, discounting merchandise, the greying consumer, and the potential for competition in the niches they respectively dominate today.





A common thread throughout the discussion was that the current economic turbulence is a time for opportunity and action. The online consumer market is busting at the seams worldwide (pardon the bad pun). Ecommerce sites cutout the paralyzing overhead that is driving brick and mortar operations out of business, and they offer services that a traditional retail store simply cannot - there are of course limitations and downsides to both operations. Nonetheless, the numbers speak for themselves, and for anyone looking to make a name for themselves in fashion today - the Internet could, and should, be your angel.

In fact, more than that it is, quite frankly, the intelligent alternative for anyone looking to get involved in a start-up. And perhaps, as employment in corporate America continues to dwindle, this is becoming an intriguing consideration for many of us. "You have nothing to lose today," said Adam Dell. "It's not like you're walking away from the job at Merrill Lynch that you would have had last year. You've got no where to go but back to live with your parents." Depressingly honest, but sickeningly true.

Gilt, Avelle, and Portero - all first to market ventures - are introducing a younger set of consumers to the designer market, and challenging the credibility of the luxury price point. "We're hoping it leads to greater price equilibrium," espouse Alexis Maybank of the often absurd price tags on full mark-up products. With that sentiment in mind, and while acknowledging their intimidating dominance over the market, the panel both welcomed and encouraged competition. Michael Smith made the point that greater competition inevitably brings more awareness to the industry, and results in more customers spending more money. To revert to an timeworn analogy I heard far too often at business school: it is not about dividing up the pie into small pieces - it's about baking a bigger pie.

So there is room for us yet! And anyone still struggling or dreaming about making their name in fashion still has plenty of opportunity. My most recent personal favorite is Khoi Lee - a small time designer making a lot of noise thanks to her unique creative output and fashion blog Refiner29. Joining forces, scratching backs, and dropping names, the online fashion community is producing something enviable. While the behemoth department stores and designer stand-alones probably aren't going anywhere, neither is the online community, and those having the biggest impact are the ones that have found a way to work together. My personal opinion is that it is within this synergy that the greatest opportunities are to be found.

Adam Dell made the point most eloquently when he closed with:

"There is still a lot left to be built."

Ahhhhh, finally a bit of positivity!

Monday, June 22, 2009

(IMO) a Better Life Philosophy

On a dreary and drizzly Sunday evening I wrapped myself in an old over sized cardigan and took myself to the movies. I think I have said it before - I am not a movie goer. I hate the scratchy seats that too many bums have imprinted, and the stench of popcorn dampened with butter... it's just really not my thing. But their is an irresistible allure to a Woody Allen movie...especially a Woody Allen movie set in New York City...that hooked me. And so, with no other plans this evening I succumbed to the urge to wonder down to the Angelika Film Center and sit anonymously in a room full of strangers to watch Whatever Works - I like to think that Mr. Allen would find this state of mind entirely appropriate for one of his films - especially this one.

Movie reviews are tricky. They inevitably give something away or at the very least create a false sense of expectation. Given this, I am going to steer a way from a review of the movie itself (although I do suggest you see it) and instead jot down what I was thinking as I left the flick.

As I strolled up Bleecker I pondered the validity of having a life plan...

I grew up with quite a strict life plan - well plans really. As I grew up the plans changed and evolved, and as it should, but the point is there was always a 'plan', a path for happiness and success. I don't think there is any problem with having a life plan, in fact I would argue that it's in many ways necessary to live a life of accomplishment. My sudden problem with my life plan is what it's composed of and how I arrived at it.

White picket fences? A six, née seven digit salary? I Brad Pitt-esque husband? Rock star status? Private schooled children? A second home in Napa? A third in The Alps? Who decided all of this anyways?

OK, my life plan is a little more elaborate than this, but the point stands that so many of us carry these perfect visions of what happiness ought to be - what we think it is - rather than going after what it really is. It all gets muddled up because what's happy for you maybe isn't so happy for me, and vice versa. In a world that looks for objectivity over relativity the idea that happiness is different for everyone can become more than a little perverted - I don't even want to think about the religious implications of this argument!

I guess the point is: Whatever Works man! For me, it was a strangely liberating notion to be able to vocalize within my own head. The idea that I can let go of all my preconceived, preordained, society-influenced ideals and find what makes me really happy...well that frees up a whole realm of possibilities that are other wise closed off, forbidden, unthinkable!


I know that these ideas and concepts have been there - available to think about and discuss long before Woody Allen came along - but it's kind of nice when someone spells it out so perfectly succinctly for you! The ironic part is Larry David lays it out quite simply in his first monologue, "this is not the feel good movie of the year," but that's exactly what it turned out to be - if your open to a slightly different interpretation!

And now for the "review" part, just take a peek at the trailer (you can turn the music off at the bottom of the page)


Sunday, June 21, 2009

(IMO) Dad's are Heroes!

Something really weird, and entirely unexpected happened to my father just seconds after I was born. Without warning he transformed from Clark Kent into Superman - permanently. He didn't have a snazzy suite - at first. Those would come later as I dragged him through the many floors of Canada's Harry Rosen in search of Boss, Etro, Canali and Ferragamo. He didn't have the ability to fly or the superhuman strength required to save the world from a meteorite attack, but he did have his Lois Lane and, in the moments after my birth, and least one life long fan!

how it all began...Gordo & Virginia

In his first feat of superhero activity my dad taught me the unparalleled importance of a hug. In my naive infancy I was blissfully unaware of the true power of my father's hugs. I believed them to be daily perk occurring around 6am when he left for the office, and again around 6pm when he dashed home for family dinner before returning to the office. It was not until later years that I came to understand the sanctity and safety of my father's hugs.

I was by no means a perfect child, in fact I probably offered more than my fair share of sleepless nights and unnecessary excitement. Despite the associated groundings, yellings, and arguments, at the end of they day I always knew it would be OK, and that I had not in fact been disowned by the family, once my dad wrapped his superman arms around me, kissed the top of my head, and asked me very kindly to stop having such massive "brain farts". While they certainly have not faded altogether, I would like to think they have become "less massive" in recent years.













quality time with the old man

The most super of my father's superhero abilities was an uncanny knack for being in all places at once. While garnering not unnoticeable acclaim in the business world, he simultaneously made it home to read to me nine nights out of 10, taught me how build a princess throne on wheels out of over sized lego blocks, took me sledding on winter weekends, attended every soccer came that I can remember and coached every single softball team that my sister and I ever played on - we one several championships as a result of his parental enthusiasm!

The funny thing is - at the time it was never enough. Call it love, call it adolescence, call it whatever you like. When I was in the midst of it all, it seemed like he was never around enough. But then again, I also believed that I was responsible enough to stay home alone on the weekends, grown up enough to drink vodka, and in control enough to have raging house parties. Let's just say I was not the best judge of reality while growing up.

As the years have passed, and my childhood has become startlingly more clear, I realize that my dad really was the most superhero of them all. He never lost me, he never forgot me, he never put me second, he never stopped the love - and ooooooooh did I give him reason! I don't know how many corporate Presidents, CEOs, and Chairmen can make this claim to fame - I haven't done the poll; I'm guessing not many. But I do know that my father is the one man who wins the prize for being a superhero father.

To dad. xoxo.

Monday, May 18, 2009

(IMO) Alex's Vegas Philosophy

Alex is an "mmm mmm mmm" Frenchie. Girls all over Vegas have swooned for his French accent, and the competition only makes him hotter - and he knows it.

"Frick! Where are we going?

I do everything that I want here. The priority is booze - but fun over anything else. Fun can involve anything - besides pretension, drama and cries - keep that out of Vegas. Joy and smiles...that's the only thing we should look for. Keeping it simple brings you a long way - even in Vegas. Just be yourself.

That's actually pretty good for a drunk little boy like myself at 3am in the morning."

(IMO) Jess's Vegas Philosophy

"This is exactly what my father warned me about."

(mum stop reading)

These are the favorite words of one of our most favorite femmes. Vegas so often turns into a parent's worst nightmare - and yet we keep going. Dancing on a bar "On The Moon" we were reminded of this sacred warning from fathers everywhere. And yet, and yet...


Two hours later - on to the after hours clubs.

Safe and sound. xx

Friday, May 15, 2009

(IMO) Stu's Vegas Philosophy

Stu is Sydney's hot Aussie boyfriend. Judging by the way they met, and they way he's lived his life since, I'd say he has one of the most carefree life philosophies on earth. So what happens when he shows up in Vegas? How will he live his Vegas life?

Stu:

Basically my Vegas philosophy is: you have to get dressed up. My aim is to get back to where I was - which is: 'look at me'. Let's try to be someone who is fucking unbelievable. I'll dress up in a suit, I'll do anything. Be who you are, and then classy up who you are. But you're never going to be able to change who you are.

(IMO) Sydney's Vegas Philosophy

Sydney is one of my besties - and the ultimate person to show up in Vegas with. Her life philosophies never cease to shock, awe, amaze and impress me... Therefore, I was naturally curious as to her Vegas Philosophy.

Sydney:

"You can be whoever you want to be in Vegas. There is a dress I could never wear in Calgary, in Canada for that matter, that I brought for Vegas. And I'll never wear a again. It's tight, it's fabulous, it's gold. When you're out in Vegas it's not reality. I'm a fucking Millionaire here, and there are no boundaries.

xoxo - Syd

(IMO) Vegas Philosophies

This weekend I am in Vegas and I decided to blog about the trip in a new format - hence the Vegas Philosophies was born.

The Vegas Philosophies chronicle the outlandish belief systems that develop in the temporary weekend residents of Vegas Town. I'm talking to all sorts of characters to give you an idea of what people really think about life when they come to Vegas.

They are one's personal philosophy of going out, dressing up, and getting down - Vegas style.

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

(IMO) When Anna Wintour Talks, You Listen

I can think of no better way to end my final year of university at Parsons than to listen to an interview/lecture with the industry's ruling monarch: Anna Wintour. And so it was I came to hear her thoughts on where our little fashion industry is headed on this economic roller coaster.

Because it was not until I read New York Magazine's tiny placement for this hugely exciting event at the back of last week's issue (it takes me a week just to get that far through) I was forced to line up for stand-by tickets at the 92d Street Y two and a half hours before the show began. I waited with despair as the only two girls ahead of me received cancellation tickets, and with a mere ten minutes to go before start time, I seriously began to question the viability of this plan. But as the cliché goes, "good things happen to good people", and since I recycle every week, finish all my homework on time, and hold the door open for others, a good thing happened. Mme. Anonymous walked up and handed me a free ticket... apparently her friend had bailed on her, and I got to reap the benefits!

I gleefully cozied into my seat, pen in had, ready to listen intently to everything the wise voices of Jonathan Tisch and Anna Wintour had to say.























The discussion began with brief introductions and a robust round of applause for the evening's guest of honor. JT began with a simple question: "What does the fashion industry mean to you?" AW began her reply by stating that there are a multitude of meanings, but she had not even finished her first sentence before a rowdy group of PETA demonstrators leaped up, threw a massive banner over the balcony, and started ranting on Anna's poor track record with fur covered beasts before breaking into the chant "fur shame, fur shame, fur shame." The crowd was more than a touch taken aback, and it took us several seconds before we rebounded. Someone yelled, "I love you Anna," and the rest of us broke into a thundering applause that drowned out the ridiculous chants of PETA before they were hauled out of the event.

I respect PETA's beliefs and their cause, but seriously, the lady was not even wearing fur! It all came off as silly and juvenile.

Regardless, I have to say that this was immensely exciting for me - my first PETA demonstration...it's like a rite of passage in the fashion industry. You're not truly fabulous until someone tries to douse your fur coat in paint as you step out of a show during fashion week. Poor Carine Roitfeld felt the full brunt of that last February when she was attacked by PETA protesters outside Jean Paul Gaultier's show at Paris Fashion Week.

The audience once again turned to the stage, wondering how the venerable Anna Wintour would respond. "As I was saying, fashion means different things to different people." The entire room shook with laughter in their Christian Louboutins, and A Dubs came off the classy and polished victor of that battle.

The evening continued without interruption, and the discussion was wholly inspiring. This is a lady who decided what she wanted very young, and without any sort of a formal university education, has climbed to the top of her league. She has worked in the industry almost her whole life - more than 20 of those as Editor in Chief at Vogue. She has taken a path separate from her parent's, despite their connections in the industry - her father was at one time the editor of the Evening Standard in the UK.

I've included a quick recap of some of my favorite comments.
*Not all of this is direct quotes, but it does offer a concise recap of what transpired.

JT: How do you maintain the Vogue brand
AW: I like to quote Ralph Lauren when this question comes up. 'I want the brand to be like Nike, like Coke. Not too hot, not too cold. I just want to be there.' Although we are a leader in the industry, we do not want to be too far ahead or we will lose our readers.

JT: What skill set do you look for in the people you hire today?
AW: I hire on instincts. Someone I would want to hang out with, and someone who will disagree with me - not "yes" people. I am looking for people that can offer something that I can't offer myself.

Like what? The lady knows and does everything! But it is nice to see that a backbone does in fact get you somewhere in this industry - although I imagine it better damn well be a polite backbone!

JT: How do you keep Vogue fresh?
AW: Despite the economic times, it is important that we don't turn into recession weekly [more laughs]. But we do focus on what's going on now. We are more focused on the cost of the items we use in the magazine. I now ask the price of every outfit that comes in. Editors are surprised by how pricey a little sequined dress by an unnamed designer can be. Chances are we won't use that $25,000 dress this time around.

JT: How will retailers fare going forward? Will we see the same deep discounts that we did last fall?
AW: Like many business owners, I think that retailers got scared and they panicked. I don't think that the industry will return to the same panic situation in future seasons. We are actually working with the Mayor
on a program to bring customers back into the stores. We are announcing it next week so I can't talk about the details today.

oooohhhh!!!! Secret plans with Mayor Bloomberg! Do you think we'll all get $100 to spend on new shoes? Stay tuned for all the juicy details next week. WWD seams to be on top of the news - at least via their twitter updates.

JT: How do you feel about the move from Bryant Park to Lincoln Center for NY Fashion Week?
AW: T
here is a sense today that there are too many fashion shows during fashion week. Bryant Park ran its course and it didn't want us anymore. It became too small. With all the restoration going on at Lincoln Center, it is going to be perfect.

I unquestioningly agree. The industry has finally grown to be recognized as an art form in New york, and it is time that we treat it as such. The Lincoln Center adds a distinction to the week that was not present at Bryant Park.

JT: On the Met Gala and the Model as Muse Exhibit. Will we see more models on the cover of Vogue?
AW: I give immense congratulations to Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton, the curators at the MET Costume Institute. They did an incredible job. Who knows what the future holds; we certainly have a model on the next issue.

Vogue's last issue had a sprawling cover with many of today's top models. How could they not continue the trend??? The magazine must support the exhibit they helped to create!

JT: With the economy, is the business side, the numbers, becoming more involved in the publishing side?
AW: This is why
Condé Nast is an incredible company to work for. Regardless of what is going on in the economy, we never have any editorial pressure from the business side. There is no pressure to be nice to the advertisers so that we don't upset them. There is no quid pro quo.

And as it should be. It is hard enough for young designers to make it in this industry without competing against the deep pockets of Vogue's biggest advertisers. Let's hope that this
recognition and commitment to editorial integrity remains a corner stone of the Condé Nast Philosophy

JT: Why did you decide to put the First Lady on the cover of Vogue so soon into her time at the White House?
AW:
Make no mistake, it was Michelle who 'decided' to be on the cover of Vogue. Vogue has actually been following Michelle Obama for quite a while. We profiled her in the September issue 2 years ago. The Obama's captured the fashion industry because they are the first administration in quite some time to accept the industry; to understand the industry & embrace the industry. Michelle shows that you can be a strong, working woman without wearing a paper bag.

Amen. And I think the pairing makes perfect sense. Vogue is out there to support and enhance the fashion industry and no one is doing that better that our current First Lady. Fashion match made in heaven!

JT: What does fashion mean to New york?
AW:
New York is the center of Fashion for the United States. New Yorkers are amused by fashion, they love fashion, and they are fashion savvy. Fashion people come together in NYC like nowhere else. Seventh on Sale for AIDS/HIV awareness brought the whole industry together in New York. The first year Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Donna Karen - they were all out there actually selling the clothes. It is not seen outside New York. It is touching and hard to describe.

JT: Who would you like to spend more time with? Who would you invite to your next dinner party?
AW: I would like to spend more time with Ambassador Rice. I think she is an interesting and intelligent woman.

JT: Do you ever think of tackling other things in the future?
AW: Usually I'm just thinking about the next day. I'm very lucky, I think I have the best job in the world. To tell you the truth, I don't think I'd be very good at anything else.

Well, I think we all disagree with that, but there is no doubt that Anna Wintour has the best job in the world...at least the fashion world.

JT: When you look back, what look, style icon or cover best describes your time at Vogue?
AW: I love the first cover I did at Vogue. It was with a model named Michaela, and she was in a Christian Lacroix t-shirt with a cross on it. We paired it with Guess blue jeans. It was a three-quarter length shot which was rare because we used to do just close frame head shots. So that was really marking a change. That is my favorite cover.

I love that from the outset Anna Wintour has not hesitated in changing and evolving industry standards. It is a sweet anecdote, but there is something more to take away from that.

JT: Is there still a future and a career in the fashion industry?
AW: Absolutely.
Fashion is an important, vibrant industry, and when we all come together we can create change. Fashion has a bright future!

So the moral of this whole fashion story: don't give up if this is what you want to do!

And on that happy note we end.

Sunday, May 10, 2009

(IMO) Mother's Day

My mum's style is in her smile. It's never really mattered what she put on - she's always been radiant in simplicity accessorized with a smile. Although her closet has historically trended towards classic and functional, I like to reflect how my obsession with the fashion industry has opened the realm of possibility for her. Over the years she's become comfortable with skinny jeans, sheer tunics, leather leggings, exposed zippers and oversized sunglasses... all items she swore she could never wear when they first appeared (or should I say reappeared) on store shelves and magazine pages. Nonetheless, you could strip away her adopted fashionista persona, and you'd still be left with the most beautiful woman I know. Keep smiling Momma!!!

As I reminisced my life with mum, and perused a selection of old & new photos I found several that I had to share. Happy Mother's Day Mum xoxo.

I love this picture because it is so representative of my mum and I. Twenty years later and we still sit on steps, sidewalk curbs, café patios, hardwood floors, step ladders, benches and sandy beaches... anywhere convenient at the moment for a good heart to heart chat. She has always taken an intent interest in my little show & tell sessions.


This picture is a sentimental favorite because it is one of the few pictures I have of me, my mum, and her mum... plus lots of the other people we love! It was a really happy family trip - and this is one of the few thankful moments where my mother had the good sense to refrain from dressing my sister and I as twins. I guess it was just easier to buy two of the same thing than look for different outfits...


As we grow up and become consumed with life's hardships and everyday stresses it is often harder to be spontaneously silly. This picture captures, in photographic permanence, that silly mood that sneaks out of my parents every so often. I can usually induce the same effect by poking my mum in the side where I know she is most ticklish, or during any of the now rare times that the whole family gets together. Additionally - that is a graphic print skirt I would lust over today, And had my mum not divested herself of 90% of her original wardrobe...


This is one of my favorite pictures ever taken of my mum and I - not because either of us look particularly glam, but because of the massive feat which it commemorates. While feeling restless and adventurous on a trip to Southern Italy we decided to take a hike along a beautiful Positano coastline. After 21 years of life with my mum, it was not until we reached a narrow pathway along a ridge about a foot wide that I truly understood my mother's fear of heights. Mean as it is, it still makes me laugh to think of her crawling across this ridge with tears cascading down her cheeks - too far in to turn back, too far to go to the end. No one but my mum could have made crawling along a ledge in a skirt look glamorous - minus the tears, she could have been a model á la the fearless Dovima!


This picture proves everything I said before... simplicity accessorized with a smile! My mum is a beautiful lady.

Saturday, May 9, 2009

(IMO) 2009 CFDA Nominees

The CFDA has pulled back the curtains and revealed the incredible set of deserving nominees for this years Fashion Awards (Read: Oscars of Fashion). I have my own personal favorites for whom I will keep my fingers crossed, but regardless of the outcome several phenomenal designers will be recognized. The CFDA Fashion Awards are sponsored by Swarovski, and will take place June 15 at Alice Tully Hall at Lincoln Center.

Drum roll please... and the nominees are:

Womenswear Designer of the Year:
Marc Jacobs
Narciso Rodriguez
Laura and Kate Mulleavy for Rodarte

***I hate to play favorites in this group, but the Rodarte sisters so completely deserve this one***
image courtesy of style.com

Menswear Designer of the Year:
Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Klein Collection
Michael Bastian
Scott Sternberg for Band of Outsiders

***My heart lies with Italo Zucchelli this year - Calvin Klein was a win all round this season***
image courtesy of men.style.com

Accessory Designer of the Year:
Marc Jacobs
Vera Wang
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez for Proenza Schouler

***Have to go with the Proenza Schouler Duo***
image courtesy of proenzaschouler.com

Swarovski Award for Womenswear:
Thakoon Panichgul
Alexander Wang
Jason Wu

***I'm so entirely biased here because I had the opportunity to speak with the talented Jason Wu last month, and I adore him even more than his designs!!!***
images courtesy of style.com

Swarovski Award for Menswear:
Patrick Ervell
Robert Geller
Tim Hamilton

***Love what Patrick Ervell did for Spring and Fall 2009***
image courtesy of men.style.com

Swarovski Award for Accessory Design:
Albertus Q. Swanepoel
Alejandro Ingelmo
Justin Guinta for Subversive Jewelry

***With all the fuss over hats this year - spawned largely from Aretha Franklin's Inaugural chapeau - my vote has to go to Albertus Swanepoel***
image courtesy of albertusswanepoel.com

Friday, May 8, 2009

(IMO) The Model As Muse: Embodying Fashion

On Wednesday morning the MET opened its doors to a throng of people itching to see the Costume Institute's latest exhibit: Model As Muse. The exhibit, sponsored by the magnanimous Marc Jacobs and Condé Nast, and curated by fashion scholars Harold Koda and Kohle Yohannan, has been crowed ever since, and this morning I made my grand entrance... jaw firmly dropped to floor.

The exhibit explores multiple mediums to relay the beauty, relevance, and influence that iconic models of the last 50 years have had on the societies that adored them. Examining major players in the profession from 1947 - 1997, the MET used fashion's most famous photography; panel displays of Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, and Time Magazine from every era; stunning mannequin installations designed with help from multi-medium artist Julien d'Ys; and video clips such as William Klein’s “Qui êtes-vous, Polly Maggoo?” staring it-girl of the 60s Dorothy McGowan.

For lovers of fashion, beauty, and the illustrious world of modeling, this exhibit will be an obvious destination. But for those who have long despised the exclusive and overly airbrushed inner circle, the exhibit may serve to offer you a different perspective. As much as the Costume Institute seeks to glorify supermodels in all their envied perfection, it also reaches to explain the
hugely influential impact theses woman have had on their respective decades... indeed, across decades for those captivating enough to mesmerize, multiple generations. Can we say "The Trinity"?

Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz, Christy Turlington, and Cindy Crawford in Giorgio di Sant'Angelo
Photographed for Vogue British, January 1990 by Peter Lindbergh
image courtesy of the MET

Take, for instance, the explanation proffered by Harold Koda,
"We look at the power of clothing, fashion photography, and the model to project the look of an era. With a mere gesture, a truly stellar model can sum up the attitude of her time – becoming not only a muse to designers or photographers, but a muse to a generation."
- Harold Koda
If you are having a hard time imagining a woman who could hold this sort of power...especially one as supposedly vapid as a supermodel... just think of Twiggy and Kate Moss, two women who were initially dismissed by the world of fashion for their various "flaws", and who have since become house hold names worldwide. Their success has launched them to an elevated platform, and these two, undoubtedly savvy business women, have gone on to take much broader roles in their profession, and in our lives. When Twiggy landed on North American soil for the first time she was greeted with presidential grandeur. From the first, people coveted her look, and now in retrospect, we can clearly see the divide where a new era began with her arrival. Although admittedly a smaller scale, was it so different an atmosphere when hundreds of men and women lined up for Kate Moss' symbolic cutting of the Topshop ribbon last month in New York? These are obviously women whose presence means something to us.




















Twiggy in Yves Saint Laurent Photographed for Vogue, 1967 by Bert Stern

and Kate Moss Photographed by Peter Lindbergh


Models have served to altogether change the fashionable silhouette, as was with Dorian Leigh, Dovima, and Suzy Parker for Dior's "New Look" in 1947. Curved shoulders and exposed clavicles introduced a brand new era for fashion.

Dovima with the elephants in Dior
Photographed for Harper's Bazaar, September 1955 by Richard Avedon


Models have altogether altered the aesthetic of beauty, redefining what we perceive to be beautiful and ushering in an increasingly global understanding of beauty. Donyale Luna was the first black model to appear on the cover of British Vogue in 1964.

Donyale Luna in Paco Rabanne
Photographed for Vogue, 1966 by Guy Bourdin


Models such as Lisa Taylor and Rene Russon, and Christy Brinkely heralded the proclamation of progressive social politics for women during the 70s in the wake of the Vietnam War and throughout a financial recession that haunted the decade.

Lisa Taylor in Calvin Klein
Photographed for Vogue, May 1975 by Helmut Newton


And finally we had the Supermodels: the women who are lauded as much for their "pronounced individuality", as for their stunning physical features. These women lived, and do live, strong public lives that epitomized the dreams and fantasies of the 80s. Naomi, Christy, Linda, Kate, and a handful of select others lived lives, at least in print and on the catwalk, that left a distinct impression on the psyche of more than one generation.

Christy Turlington & Linda Evangelista in Karl Lagerfeld
Photographed for Vogue, April 1990 by Patrck Demarchelier


The power and influence of the model-set has ebbed and flowed throughout history. At times they have reached meteoric heights, and during others they have been all but eclipsed by the celebrity of Hollywood. But these women are an integral part of the history, and the future, of a multi-billion dollar industry loved by many. Their place in Fashion deserves to be commemorated, and the partnerships that have brought this exhibit to life have done an model job.

Model As Muse: Embodying Fashion is on display at the MET from now through August 9, 2009.